The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.
It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve grapes on a rambling allotment situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district area and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help cities remain greener and more diverse. They preserve open space from construction by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Variety
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Across the City
Additional participants of the collective are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Production
Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over 150 plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the skins and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a fence on